Magpie Mods

Mid 18th century, around 1740s or 50s will be a slight modification to the

"Robe a la Francaise or Sacque or Sack Gown - an iconic gown of the entire 18th century, the Robe a la Francaise, or Sacque, features a pleated back. The Robe a la Francaise was commonly worn over side hoops, and as the century progressed, remained the style of choice for formal occasions."

from American Duchess

One thing I noticed with this era, is that there are so many layers. I mean, I despise clothing but also love clothing. It is a Love/Hate relationship I carry daily. This is absolutely breathtaking and will quite literally take your breath away.
List of fabrics to consider for your own project.
Hover over photo collage below

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Liner: 100% cotton muslin Natural

Sleeve Accent: Poly Two Tone Chiffon Mocha/Gold

Robe: Liotta Paisley Silk Turquoise

Petticoat and Stomacher: Rosette Irisdescent Taffeta Ivory

Thread: Gutermann Ivory, Light Blue

Cone Thread: Biege, Natural

Hooks and eyes size 2

The planned fabrics for this piece are so beautiful.

Purchased through Fabric.com since they have an amazing selection and the RIGHT price.

Here is the color palette:

The main fabric is from Best Fabric Store .com

Bel Air Antique Blue

The rest is from Fabric.com

Rosette Iridescent Taffeta Ivory

Poly Two Tone Chiffon Mocha/Gold

Muslin Natural

The dress pattern I am using is Simplicity 4092

I will be modifying this pattern to have a separate stomacher, Petticoat, and cloak. The sleeves will also become altered to have a layered oval shape to it.

I have already made the two Petticoat under garments using this amazing tutorial by koshka-the-cat

She has easy to understand instructions. I used an old bed sheet to practice on. Here are the two Petticoats I made for the undergarments. The third one will be made using the Cream colored fabric above.

This post contains affiliate links, which means I receive compensation if you make a purchase using this link.

Lightweight and Heavyweight natural Muslin

can be found below at my #1 source

http://www.jdoqocy.com/click-8423217-12682069

Blog update on this project.
I purchased a new foot for my Necchi Sewing Machine. The rolled hem foot. I took scraps to test it out and to practice for the real hems. I thoroughly enjoyed how fast and neat it worked.

I create individual folder files for all my notes, measurements, and thoughts for each project. Also in this file I place my "timecard" to keep track of my labor.

I started with altering the measurements on the pattern pieces. Placed them on the medium weight Muslin, which is the liner and interfacing in this costume. Making sure to mark the waist on each piece so I could get as close to the corset waist measurement. I decided to construct the liner first so I could make slight adjustments to the pattern pieces as needed and then cut out the cloak fabric.

Stomacher construction was the first piece to modify from the costume pattern.

Since the pattern had the stomacher attached to the cloak instead of being a separate piece, I had to bind the whole outer edge as well as add extra "interfacing" to stiffen it.

(will have a separate tutorial linked here)

Here is the bodice of the cloak before pressing the seams open.

I placed the liner and Stomacher on the mannequin so I could measure bust, waist, and torso as it would be a close fit.

What is not pictured are all the pattern piece steps, follow the instructions on the pattern for most of the construction of this costume.

Below is the sleeve and my new rolled hem foot (which I love) Make sure to practice on scrap fabric if you are not familiar with it. I had to look up videos on the good ol' YouTube.

The difference from the pattern sleeves and my sleeve modification is that I chose to make them elongated ovals with extra length on the back.

I added elastic to just right above the elbow for a gathered look. Which flexes with the bend of the elbow.

Again, pinning to re-measure making sure seam allowance is correct.

Sleeve detail.

Pleating the Petticoat. A really good tutorial for the construction of a petticoat can be found here: koshka-the-cat which I used for all the petticoats for this costume.I like the fact that the length for the hips is added to the top of the petticoat instead of the bottom. If you have patterns or visual lines in your fabric this will keep it straight on the bottom.

I had to pillow up my mannequin for the construction phases. I needed there to be a good base for the fabric to "rest" for a few days so I could make sure the hem was fully done with gravity pulling down on it.

Petticoat with just the bodice before I added the skirting.

Gathering tip: Widest and Longest Zig Zag over a thicker thread. makes for pulling the gather easier on larger areas.

The pillows are not on the mannequin due to finger pressing the pleats.

liner was constructed the same as the main fabric.

Blind stitching for the liner.

THIS STUFF right here is fabulous. My husband found it for me. I would always get my thread in knots even when using wax. He found this at Joann Fabric.

hand stitching the liner on the sleeves.

This was the inspiration for the trim. This fabric is also gorgeous. There are so many beautiful fabrics to choose from.

I made an extra wide strip and eyeballed the distance of where to stitch. Did this down the whole length, adding additional strips to the end until I had half the length I needed for the dress. The reason for half was "work smarter not harder" I cut the strip in half down the length of the trim. Stitched those together and had the full length.

Before cutting I ironed the pleats flat.

Serge the edge. Not a necessary step but I like things to not fray as I am working with the fabric.

So pretty.

We found the perfect trim for the trim. Matched the sleeve fabric and embroidery perfect.

Testing the look.

Choices...Left or Right??? of course both being really pretty, she chose Left. :-)

again a test fit of the trim.

To get a straight piece of anything to fit around a curve you will need to ease in spots. Also, to create a nice look to the trim...there were spots that needed to be cut down so it wouldn't overlap on seams. Mainly on the sleeve area of the bodice.

Here I pull extra fabric that bubbles up around a curve within the pleat to hide it and give a nice smooth look.

Baste stitch down.

Once basted, I stitched the gold trim on top. Making sure that the stitches did not go through the liner.

Found another trim that matched, this will be deconstructed and placed on a coordinating Reticule: a woman's small handbag, originally netted and typically having a drawstring and decorated with embroidery or beading.